Wednesday, May 11, 2011

Fuck.

So, my Windows crashed on my laptop. I had sent updated my blog, but apparently it didn't save. SO fuck.

We had last week off of school for Victory Day. It was the best week fo my life. Every day, I woke up, made Oleg breakfast, went to bed, then woke up, cleaned, went sightseeing, took myself to lunch, then made Oleg supper. Avoided homework the entire time. Victory day was interesting... went to Oleg's parents' house, where his mother and grandmother tried to kill me through over-feeding. We watched the parade on tv, which is SO different from American parades... they show off their military. Oleg and I made fun of Putin and Medvedev throughout the parade...

We later met Stephanie and Whitney at Sparrow Hills for a picnic. I watched the fireworks with Stephanie from the university... nice fireworks, but the crazy part was that everyone, adults and children alike, cheered and yelled at the fireworks. I felt really weird.

I did the boat cruise down the river Saturday. Fun, but it looked like it was going to rain the entire time. I saw the big monastery I want to go see, plus Museon. There is a little house in Sparrow Hills that I want to explore with Oleg sometime.

The really annoying part about having Oleg is that now, as I wander Moscow, I look for good places to hold a wedding.

Oleg and I also went to the open market, which he is pretty obsessed with. It was pretty neat... very different than in America. We bought meat from a butcher with no gloves or hairnet.... a nice piece of meat that was made into farsh for us and now is a meatloaf.

Let's see... My friends and I went out in a limo last Friday. Everyone got trashed, and I saw the city drunk (as usual) and got to pay a 10 ruble bribe after we were pulled over.

I've also fell in love with Park Pobedy, and found a really great cheap Japanese restaurant near Tretyakovskaya.

And.... thats about it. Center Obuv is the best place to buy shoes... really cheap. There is TGI Fridays at Novie Cherumushki which is essentially in a flea market, and thus really, really strange. You literally have to walk through two other restaurants to get to an emergency staircase where the entrance is located. And Oleg and I booked our Turkey trip... 7 nights in a 5-star resort, all inclusive, for about $1300.

Otherwise, I have finals coming up and am really nervous.

Friday, April 15, 2011

Oops...

There are a lot of thinks I learned growing up that I no longer agree with. "Cutting out carbs and eating nothing but steak is NOT the best diet plan. Being religious and talking to God only when you need something probably won't win you the most points with the man upstairs in the long run. But, of all things I learned as a child, there is one thing that I shall always hold near and dear to my heart:

Fuck Canada.

I mentioned offhand that yesterday that I wanted to go to dinner. I have fallen into a bit of a bad habit. 5 night a week, I cook dinner for Oleg and I. As he is far too skinny, I do my best to make the food nice and fattening, in hopes of chubbing him up a little bit. Which in turn chubs me up. And then, the other 2-3 nights a week, I don't have any desire to cook for myself (who likes to cook for one?) and I end up eating 40p pizza from my university or going out for fast food. I meant I wanted to go to My-My, because... fuck yeah, My-My. But Chris mentioned Chili's, and thus Thursday night has become Chili's night. All but one of the Americans came... Even Julia/Angelina.

Back up: The night before, Chris made fajitas. I was supposed to come over, but he cursed me out for texting him instead of talking on the phone (because I was on the street and I couldn;t hear him over the cars) so Grisha and I went to the mall. I discovered Kroshka Kartoshka makes strawberry blinchiki for 45p, and MacDonalds sells Pizza Pockets for like 50p they call "pereshok po-intaliansky." So, I was willing to do Chili's, as I hadn't had Mexican the night before.

Also, I wore my new red shirt out. I had promised Oleg when I bought it that I wouldn't wear it out without him, as his first response to it was, "But you already HAVE a boyfriend!" But then I heard Angelina was coming and she is a model-quality blonde Russian girl, and I needed some sort of defense. So, I looked pretty cute. The menu at Chili's is the same as in the US, it isn't too pricey, and they have great drinks.

I understand restaurants here are expensive when you are making your money in Russia (where salaries are low) but they aren't too bad by American standards... Once you figure that you don't add 8% tax, and mandatory 20% tip (yes, I never tip under 20% in the US) its probably about the same.

After dinner, I left to meet my friend Jaidy at Lubyanka. She got accepted to Queen's College in London for an exciting program in international conflict resolution. She's thinking of studying Chechnya, except then she'd have to go there to interview people, and that could end poorly...

She was late (as always) but she finally showed up with two of her co-workers, a Russian girl whose name I didn't catch, and a fucking Canadian.

We went to a bar called Prirogi, or something similar. It is apparently a chain. Cheap and cozy. I really liked it. Us girls met up with some of the boys, but otherwise, we were the only girls there... some Russian men heard us speaking English and catcalled us. Vanessa, who is Austrian, had a bad day at work, so I bought her a Sex on the Beach. 140p. Could have stayed all night.

We eventually left for Propaganda (a block away) and lost Katya and the other Russian girl in the process. It was... Propaganda. Same old same old. Sort of awkward music, but its free. Tried playing wingwoman for Jaidy, who was having boyfriend problems as always. We had overpaid our bill at the last bar by 350p, and used that money to buy a round of cheap vodka shots. We stayed for about an hour and chose to leave.

Unfortunately, we followed Dima to some bar that was fucking DEAD. The other two boys (we had misplaced the rest of them) went to the bar to chat up some girls, so Dima, Vanessa, Jaidy, Sara (the Canadian) and I sat at a table. They all drank, but I took a break, and wanted to leave as much as possible. I somehow ended up boxed in by crazy Canadian. She was loud, and obnoxious, and wouldn't shut the fuck up.

The reason me and most normal Americans hate Canadians is that they take all the good things about American culture, and then add some more good things (like legalized marijuana) and then have a crazy superiority complex about it. Dude... you are piggybacking off us. That is the only reason you have time to have any culture... there's nothing else for you to fucking DO in Canada. This particular Canada was worst than most, because she has lived all over the world, so, instead of explaining to me why Canada is better than everywhere she has ever lived, she explained why it is better than every other country on the planet. Every. other. country. One. by. one. And as she got drunk, she got loud. Granted, I understand she was older than us (32) and at a different point in her life (married with 2 kids), but all she did (aside from talking about Christ and how her whole family were Messianic Jews and how everything sucks compared to Fucking Canada) was talk about how uncomfortable she felt at clubs, because she was too old and hadn't done it for forever. THEN GO HOME! Everyone left me alone at the table nodding to her ("My husband wants to retire to Israel and I don't understand it because he hated living there and after living in the Middle East for so long I don't sympathize with Israel at all...") and considering pretending to text people on my phone so she would shut up.

We left from there and took a cab to Solyanka. It was really unpleasant to have Jaidy on our laps, as she is so skinny, and therefor pretty bony.

We did our best to speak English outside of Solyanka. I learned my lesson, and told the bouncer I was 22. No cover. Solyanka is an awesome club... there are three rooms, connected by a hallway that looks like the hallway of a large home. The first room was like rap music for dancing, the second was armchairs for chilling, and the third was sort of house music. I'm pretty sure half the people there were on X, and there were groups of people just hugging and moshing. I didn't get a drink, as it was crazy expensive. Also, I was a little worried, as there was a very overweight woman all in black (think biker chick with Gothic makeup) with a creepy-looking dude in the corner just WATCHING, and I was mildly worried they were looking for signs of drunkenness to identify whose organs could most easily be stolen.

I would dance a little bit, but my boots were starting to hurt. We began to unofficially play a game. I was talking to Dave (he was asking me why I had a Russian boyfriend when they tend not to go out and party... and does he even buy me flowers? I managed to quiet him with, "He's a lawyer, yes, he has his own flat, and a car," at which point he stopped questioning and started congratulating me. And then Sara came up and started asking him where he was from. I seized my chance and ran away and found everyone else. A few minutes later, they followed me. Then she would talk to Victor, and the rest of us ran away. It became a game of "Pawn off the crazy Canadian who talks too much, too loudly on someone else."

At about 330, we left. I would usually be disappointed we went home so early, but my feet were really hurting, and I didn't have my usual Red Devil to keep me awake. I took a cab home with Dima and Dave, as Jaidy was trying to find Sarah a cab ride home, and we couldn't fit all six of us in a cab. I guess they were going to continue the party in the dorms (Jaidy has an expired proposk, and they always let her in! SO jealous!) but I was too tired, and just went to bed.

I love Moscow so much. I asked Jaidy for the business card of her job, and I think I'm going to go talk to them next week. At her place, I'd need a TEFL, but I can get it online. I know other places were I can work without it, but I figure it'll make me more marketable. I'll work on it over the summer. Aside from her official job, she teaches English on the side... she met a businessman at a bar, and he asked her to teach him English. She offered 3500p a lesson, he told her he'd pay 4000p, but he always gives her 5000p. And, he has someone taking her to the Kremlin to see... well, something next week (I don't remember). And she makes 3800p to sit with a small child for 2 hours and speak English to it. So, I'm going to start applying/making calls in the next few weeks. Or, maybe I'll do it in May after my finals.

But my new fear is that I am going to become fat and mean and washed-up like the Canadian girl.

Monday, April 11, 2011

P.S.

Behold the epic of this shoe:
http://www.zara.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product/11719/en/zara-S2011/80001/317023/PATENT%2BLEATHER%2BPEEP%2BTOE

Also, because i managed to spend a shitton of money yesterday, I shall be playing poor starving college student food-wise for a few days.

How do I accomplish this?

Easy.

Giant French baguette from the store below my dorm=25p
Cheese=30p
Microwave Pizza=40p

I shall eat for 2 days on this.

Also, spreadable cheese is one of the best things I've ever eaten. They make it in bacon OR pickle flavor. Remind me why I am going home again?

Also, Russian Dannon yoghurt is to die for. Much thicker than US yoghurt, and it comes in such flavors as apple pie and chocolate. And apple pie flavor actually has LITTLE PIECES OF APPLE AND PIE. Not like the crappy Yoplait "not-quite-dessert yoghurt."

In other unrelated news, I think I am getting fat.

nother Amazing Moscow Weekend (now with more diplomat!)

Friday I was incredibly depressed. I hadn't seen Oleg since Wednesday morning, and had had to work, so I wouldn't see him until Friday. Plus, it was all gray and rainy. I debated going out that night, and finally decided I needed to stop moping.

My friend Pierina has been mentioned before. We decided to go out. Apparently there were some Brazilian boys new to town, and we had to show them around. We started off at their apartment, right next to Pierina's family's. Amazing. Much bigger, with expensive furniture. We played King's Cup for awhile, before leaving to meet Victor to go to some club.

This club was the Starie Telegraph. It apparently markets itself as a "Sushi-Rumba bar." More in a minute on what that means.

There were about 12 of us, but they were only making the two less well-dressed boys pay the 500p cover. I didn't have my passport (for visa reasons) and they couldn't figure out my age. So, if you ever go to this club... you are 21. If you mistakenly tell the truth, you have to pay 500p cover. Which isn't too bad, because that goes to a card where you get 500p drink credit.

As we walked in, a big table emptied, so I talked us into getting it. We had a bar menu, and I ordered my usual cheap staple. But I saw some girls at the next table with a cocktail menu. I asked 3 different servers for one, to no avail. Finally, I went to the bar and asked for one sucessfully, but he had no food menu. I stole one off a table...

The music was pretty ok... Not the best I've heard, but not Propaganda-weird. You could dance to it. Some odd Russian guy tried hitting on me at the bar ("Are you here alone?" "NO! THERE ARE TWELVE OF US!" "Girls?" "NO!!!!! WE HAVE MEN WITH US!!!"... and then I fled)

The drink menu had something called Green Fairy Lemonade, which was vodka, rum, and absinthe in lemonade. Alas, they wouldn't let me pay the difference of the balance over my card, so I settled for a Sex on the Beach. The drinks here aren't very strong, but are pretty pricey, at 220-550p apiece.

Food Menu... Japanese and Mexican. Yes, you heard that right. You can get a chicken burrito and green bean tempura. Also, green bean tempura is only 100p. Its my new fav place.

Alas, I didn't get to eat there. As soon as I was able to look my menu over, I was told we were leaving.

"Can we get food on our way?"

So, we got in a cab to head to our as-yet-to-be-determined destination. Meanwhile, I sat with one of the Brazilian guys, who was mildly intoxicated and who explained to me he dislikes Americans because they think they know everything, and I explained to him that his $1500/month proposed allowance from his diplomat father would be MORE than adequate here.

We show up at a Mexican restaurant. I get out of the bathroom, and everyone has disappeared. I go exploring, to find everyone with their parents on the second floor. Yep. I somehow got to a party of South American diplomats at a 4-star Moscow Mexican restaurant. And yes, I was the only gringa there. I got to practice my Russpanol on a very nice Uraguyan diplomat. Everyone drank (FREE RUM), and we sort of ran a train on the chips and guacamole. Eventually, the parents realized it was 2am and we were seconds away from eating the guacamole with a spoon (having devoured all of the chips) so they ordered us food. And we danced until 430am there. WE TOOK OVER THE DIPLOMAT PARTY.

And Rafael, one of the Brazilians, cursed us. He complained about how he arrived too late for snow, and had never seen snow. And it started snowing. And hasn't stopped. Its fucking April. Just want everyone to know.

After that, we got a ride back to the complex. I stayed at Pierina's. Her and her sister are so amazing, and take such good care of me! I keep thanking them, and they feed me and claim that their house is my home now.

I made it back to the university in the late afternoon, and just had time to change and waste a little bit of time before Oleg fetched me. And I burnt the shit out of my finger pan-toasting bread.

We were thinking of going out with the South Americans again, but Oleg just wanted to stay in. The next morning, we got up bright and early for my acupuncture session. This time, it hurt a lot more, but I wasn't nearly as tired afterwards. We then fetched Stephanie (and Oleg talked to the MSU guards, learning we can have visitors, they just have to sign in somewhere...) ad went to a mall outside the city.

Huge mall, even by American standards. We probably weren't supposed to be there (not having our passports on us) but nobody checks... Most stores are incredibly expensive. Oleg made fun of us for going in a store called "Jennyfer" which caters to teens, but, lets face it, thats how American girls dress. I think he was just bored as there was nothing for him to look at. I bought a red spotted blouse for 1000p (Oleg response... "Darling! You forget you already have a boyfriend!" I had to promise not to wear it in Moscow without him) and a pair of espadrilles. When you come to Russia, make sure you have all your footwear covered... its so expensive here! I fell in love with a pair of 4" Zara heels... They were about 5000p. I couldn't really walk in them anyway.

Something to keep in mind here... Many dressing rooms are co-ed, and you are allowed in them with other people. This kind of threw me when Oleg called me to come into the fitting room in Zara to see how his pants looked on him. This is nice for that reason.

We also finally went to a Russian clothing store called Твое. Really cheap clothes. I bought a little jacket on sale for 359p. They even had t-shirts for 99p! Poor Oleg just wanted jeans and sneakers, and he got dragged around by us girls all day. Luckily, he finally found sneakers at a sporting goods store.

We ended up at the Ashan at this mall. Scariest place ever. It is literally the size of a Wal-Mart, with all the items that entails... a gardening section, an entire aisle of bicycles, and clothing. I found a cropped cardigan Oleg bought me... I think it was for children, but it was only 99p, and I mean, its cute. But, yeah... scariest place ever. People literally ride your ass with their carts. I had to walk with my hand held behind me to keep from being run over. We ended up just having one of us watch the cart in the middle of the store while the other two grabbed what they needed. Liek Wal-Mart, with Sunday at Ashan traffic.

We were so tired after all of this we didn't make it to Ikea. Oleg needs a box or something for his car, so we are going back before my class Wednesday. Which is fine, because I LOVE home furnishings. I have a month out of school before I return home, and I keep teasing Oleg I am going to redecorate his apartment all in pink, with a new kitten every week.

Which reminds me... we are discussing going to Turkey on vacation. Sounds epic.

I am looking into getting my TEFL over the summer. From what it seems, I can find a job here teaching English without it, but it doesn't hurt to be more competitive! I'd rather find a nice corporate job, but teaching seems to be a pretty easy gig to land.

Friday, April 8, 2011

Update

One of the boys picked up the paper I needed, and I managed to drop is under the woman's door before I went to the Tretyakov Gallery on Tuesday. So, at least that is done.

Sorry I haven't updated much this week. Not a whole lot has happened.

I went to the Tretyakov Gallery Tuesday.Its amazing. I got lost on the 2nd floor (where all the 18th and 19th century art is) and just wandered there for a few hours. I never even went to other floors. But I am a little confused, because there were artworks there I know I saw at the State Museum in St. Petersburg. Primarily, Moonlit Night on the Dnieper, which is now one of my favorite paintings.

Here's a link:
http://www.russianartgallery.org/famous/images/kuinji_luna.jpg

From there, I wandered around the neighborhood for awhile. Managed to find some EU building, and the headquarters of Мегафон. I walked all the way to Polyanka. Finally, I figured out where the pizza hut I was look for might be, and walked back near the Tratyakov.

Also, I saw a ton of motorcades in that area.

Pizza Hut was very disappointing. It was much more expensive than in St. Pete, and they did not have the salad I was so looking forward to. Oleg came and got me after he got off of work.

The good news is, we had gone grocery-shopping on Sunday, and I had bought all the makings of an amazing salad. So I was able to make Oleg a Greek salad for his lunch to bring to work, and I made an amazing salad, complete with corn and sauteed peppers and onions. So that made me happy.

Yesterday, everyone skipped Russian class for some reason. I showed up, as did the two Italians. So, we learned a few new words and just chatted about sharks and riding camels.

Afterwards, I got a text from one of the boys asking for an investment. He had bought a ton of really cheap, gross vodka, and had started to infuse it. He already had 2 pitchers of pineapple going, and I was investing in another pitcher and some peaches. So we went to Ashan. Worth it.

After that, we went to Chili's. Despite me spending a decent some of money, we had a great time. I split an appetizer trio, and ate some fajita's... bad idea. After we paid, we decided to have another round of drinks. Calypso Cooler is highly recommended. Not being able to drink with dinner for the next year is really going to suck.

I wanted to go out afterwards with a bunch of the boys, but I had a horrible tummy ache from overeating. I made it home, and fell asleep, with my closes on, for over 12 hours.

Monday, April 4, 2011

Revenge of the Living Visa-Renewal Process

Today was going to be THE DAY I finished my visa paperwork. We were supposed to meet Marina at 2 in the main building to do our paperwork. I slept until 12, and then got a text saying we weren't meeting her until 3. So I hurried up and got dressed, so that I could make it to my 1240 class for the first hour. And then Marina confirms, via text, that it was at 2. I go back to my room for an hour. We meet, and I assume that this process would take 20-30 minutes, and I could go to the last half of class. I was wrong. After over an hour of Marina working on it, I figured I wouldn't make it to class today. I'm starting to miss class. Apparently our final is May 16th, which means I have a month in Moscow to just putz around doing things and visiting other places. Also, apparently the dean forgot another paper of mine. Only of mine. I was the first to start this process, and the last to get it done. Luckily, it isn't a *very* important paper, so one of the boys is picking it up for me, and I get to drop it off tomorrow. Yay.

Although, I do stand corrected. Apparently it is harder to get an American visa than I thought. Oleg wants to visit me in November or December, and I'm trying to figure out the visa process to get him there. Apparently the US assumes all visitors plan on staying, so, you have to prove no only that you have enough money to support yourself while visiting with bank statements, but also that you have reasons to return to your home country (an apartment lease, a job, etc.) Also, they have something called a reciprocity fee, where visitors have to pay the difference between how much a visa to their country costs and how much an American visa costs. Which is silly, because they wouldn't give a discount if it was cheaper. But hopefully the darling will visit me in December once I finish with school.

Pins and Needles

I had an amazing weekend. Well, half weekend. My weekend doesn't usually start until Saturday afternoon, as Oleg ususaly has to work Saturdays, and I'm not keen on going out by myself, and most of the Americans are pretty lame. Friday, after the whole visa showdown had me depressed, I laid in bed and watched Cougar Town. The entire first season. Bask in my lame-ness.

Saturday, Stephanie, Karen (an Irish girl studying here) and I had sort of a girls' day. It was supposed to be "go to Ashan and eat at the food court" day, but we got a little side-tracked. Karen wanted to go into Zara to buy a dress for a party that evening, and, being female, Stephanie and I went with her. Bad idea. Zara is expensive. I guess its averagely-priced for Moscow standards, but for Rachel, whose personal motto (besides "Have a problem? Poke it with a stick!) is "Never Pay Retail!"

I paid retail.

What happened was... there was this awesome hat. Very similar to a giant hat I have back home, only straw (not cloth) and not bendy. It was about 2' in diameter. Amazing. 2800p. Which is more than I am willing to pay on what is essentially a joke hat.

http://www.zara.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product/11719/en/zara-S2011/61148/254055/WIDE%2BBRIMMED%2BCARTWHEEL%2BHAT

Unfortunately, you cannot see how massive that thing is in that picture. It goes about 6 inches past my shoulders.

Anyway, I found a dress I really liked. But it was $100. More than I've probably ever spent on anything that wasn't car or medicine-related. I decided I'd try it on, just for kicks. It looked amazing. I looked like June Cleaver. But, too expensive. I put it back.

Then I found another dress... khaki color with a brown belt. I try it on. I look like Indiana Jones met 1950's housewife. Pretty much my goal in life. $86. Too expensive. I put it back.

But then Karen buys a dress, and I figure I don't want to miss my chance. If I ever want to be a badass archeologist professor/adventurer by day, and a housewife by night, I need to start dressing the part. I buy both dresses. 5800p. But, I put them on my debit card. As far as I'm concerned, it never happened...

After Ashan (I bought a houseplant for my room. His name is Henry) I went home to chill out a little bit. I'd been invited to a party at my friend Jaidy's, and so I made a little mushroom blini to have something to bring. I also made a mushroom cream sauce for Oleg and I to have with dinner sometime this weekend. Got ready for the party (opted to wear my bright green Springy dress instead of one of my new dresses, as it was a "Spring is finally here" party... Also, was able to wear my new 400p sandals I bought at the market!) and Oleg picked me up. We drove straight to the party, but were there a few minutes early. My knees had been killing me, and I needed food with my arthritis medicine, so we stopped at a Kroshka Kartoshka between our parking spot and Jaidy's apartment. This is a fast-food restaurant where you get a baked potato covered in any sort of "salad" (Russian salad, not the American concept of salad, obviously). I've wanted to try it, but was afraid to go it alone, as I knew they'd ask questions I didn't know how to answer. Anyway, I got a cheesey, buttery potato with marinated veggies. Pretty much amazing.

From there, we went to Jaidy's. We were some of the first people there, but the place filled up really quick. One of my friends, Victor (from Mexico, of all places) brought Capt. Morgan, and that made the night. Its so exciting when we can drink something other than vodka. I socialized with my usual friends (Peirina, her bf Dima, Victor, the American Jeff) and made a few new ones (an Austrian girl here interning, a Norweigian guy who, despite being the cutest guy I may have ever seen, has been unable to find any casual sex in Moscow... I advised him to come to America where, between his good looks and accent, he would be "knee-deep in pussy.") Oleg went off and socialized on his own, largely. Apparently, Russian parties don't usually get so big (there were about 30-40ppl in Jaidy's 2-room apartment) and he been pretty much amazed ever since. I keep being reminded that ex-pats really know how to party.

Oleg drove me through the center of Moscow on the way home. It is such a beautiful city at night. Taking a metro home after a night of partying almost doesn't seem worth it... it is so nice to sit back and look at all the glittery lights while mildly intoxicated (with either a cab driver or sober bf driving, obviously). Although I don't suppose I'll ever actually drive here... these people are crazy.

The next morning, Oleg and I made a ridiculously large breakfast for some reason, and then went to see his Chinese doctor. Initially, Oleg wanted him to treat my chronic sore throat, but I was a little unwilling to have them poke my tonsils with pins so they could bleed out. They also wanted me to go for 3X weekly massages and acupuncture, but a. thats a bit expensive, and b. I don't have an extra three days a week. We decided on once-weekly acupuncture to relax my muscle. For those of you who don't know, I have a really bad muscle knot in my back. Ive had several professional massages, but it just won't go away. So, acupuncture brings in life motto part II ("Poke it with a stick." I assure you this can be changed a little to fit any situation)

The office was a lot nicer than I expected. Very professional. I sort of anticipated a scary back-alley place with drying chicken carcasses and herbs hanging from the walls. This place looked like your average Western doctor's office, only with nice wallpaper instead of white walls.

Oleg came in the little partition room where I was to be poked with me. It was, I will admit, a little awkward to undress in front of him in a medial facility. But I had to strip down to my panties for the doctor to, you know, job needles into my back. That being said, mildly awkward for Oleg have to translate personal medical questions back and forth for me, and for me to be in underwear in front of a doctor I had just met.

The acupuncture itself wasn't too bad. He put 2 needles in the sides of my feet, 2 in my lower back, and 6ish in my upper back. There was an initial sting as the needles went in, but it was just a slight discomfort (probably as the result of being unable to move) afterwards. Oleg and the doctor went to talk some, and I was left lying there. I had to stay still for a half hour like that. It wasn't too bad... I was trying not to drool on their little pillow (something I do when I'm asleep. Sexy, I know) and was listening to the sounds coming from the woman getting a massage next to me. I think I got the good end of that deal... the massage sounded horribly painful. After 15 minutes, Oleg came in and chatted with me, and we waited for my half an hour to be up. When it was, a nurse came in and removed my needles, and put some sort of antiseptic on the holes (which were tiny and didn't leave marks) My shoulders were really sore afterwards, and Oleg had to help me dress. But it was a good sore... I think it was worth it. We go back next week.

After the poking-session, Oleg wanted to take me somewhere to walk around. Which was fine by me, as that is pretty much my favorite past-time here. We went to the Hermitage garden. This little place has about three theatres, and was quite pretty. There is also a little pigeon coup, with an amusing sign advising visitors to please not kill the pigeons. It saddens me a little that they had to put this sign up... There was also a few very pretty gazebos, which we took a picture under. I discovered at the party that Oleg loves taking pictures, so I gave him my camera and told him to go wild. Alas, when you tell a man that, they are keen of taking pictures of you. So, the snow here had yet to melt, but it was so warm, I was wearing sandals, so we took pictures of me, coatless and in sandals, on the snow. There is a venue here for outdoor concerts, and a little heart sculpture (which there were many pictures of me taken under).

Meanwhile, I sang open sorority songs to Oleg in hopes of explaining to him what the hell it is I do in America.

After we got home, we had a lunch of rice with his Granny's kotleta and borsh. I really hope I actually learn to cook like her one day... her food is amazing, and I've no idea how to cook like a Russian. Oleg had some business to attend to, so I spent the afternoon napping and reading about Putin.

http://www.cracked.com/article_19128_7-reasons-vladimir-putin-worlds-craziest-badass.html

I am so broken-hearted to learn about the MSU students who sent him the calendar. I may have missed my chance! Now I have to send him naughty pictures on my own!

Friday, April 1, 2011

Night of the Living Visa Renewal Process: Part II of a Million-Part Horror Story

So, I met with Marina at 340 to fix the paperwork situation. Well, to try to fix the paperwork situation. We hid outside room #1 as she negotiated our spravdas, but the woman in room #2 had already left by the time we finished in room #1. Which means I get to leave class early Monday to get this handled.

Marina also gave me the dormitory registration for Grisha and I. At first she told me to drop mine off, and give Grisha his to drop off. I asked if I could drop them off together, and she said yes. Big mistake. I stopped by my dejournaya's on my way home. She wasn't there, but a little old man was. He asked me some questions about the paperwork that I was completely unable to answer. I tried to call Marina, or to leave, but he wouldn't let me... he kept yelling and telling me to sit. He finally called the dejournaya. This kind old woman came in and looked at the papers for a few minutes... in her defense, she was blind as a bat. I feel horrible, but I had to stifle a giggle as she held these papers literally an inch from her eyes. I thought people only did that in movies, but no. She took my passes and let me leave without yelling at me further.

And so the visa renewal project becomes a 2-week issue. Yay.

Visa Renewal: a Horror Story

Warning: this story is not for the weak of heart.

I have been trying to renew my visa since last week. It expires in about 5 days, but I wanted to do it early so I would get my passport back and actually be allowed to leave the city. For those of you at Stetson, Hannah Chapman is going to be touring the Baltics April 16th-24th, and invited me to go with her. I hoped to have my visa back by then because, I mean... week of classes versus touring the Baltics for no particular reason? No-brainer.

To begin:

Friday- Start out optimistic. Go to the office of the dean of my faculty at 12, and watch for as he compiles paperwork and makes copies for me. He carefully explains what to do from here. Go across the street, and pay the fee of 1000p at the bank. Take the receipt. Next, I need to go to the 8th floor. I get on the elevator, and press the button for the 8th floor. It lights up for a second, then darkens. Other people on the elevator look at me like I'm an idiot, and press 11 for me. I get off on the 11th floor, get on another elevator to go down. I press 8. It doesn't light up... I end up on the 1st floor. Giving up, I take another elevator to the 11th floor, and take the steps down. The office I need to go to first was only open from 12 to 2. It is now 210. I am told to return on Monday by the woman who is still very obviously IN HER OFFICE.

Monday-Have class.

Tuesday- Thought the office opened at 12. It opened at 2. I had other stuff to do. (2-4, btws)

Wednesday-Closed

Thursday- Make it to the room, they take one paper. I progress to room #2. There a woman proceeds to yell at me in Russian about all the things wrong with my paperwork. All I understand is go back to my faculty. I go back to the faculty and meet with the dean, who checks my paperwork, and fixes whatever lady #2 circles. I tell him I have class, what are her office hours? He says he doesn;t know, but this is more important, so fix this instead. I hurry back to the main building (once again, take elevator to the 11th floor, stairs down to the 8th). Her office hours were 1030-12. It is now 1207. I make myself a grilled cheese sandwich in resignation.

Friday-Wake up early to be there when Lady#2 arrives. Three other Americans are already there. She is 1/2 hour late. We take turns being yelled at... one of the other students, and myself, are missing the little gray paper they had taken from me in room #1 yesterday (he never received his.) I try to explain that they took it, but am told to go back to the faculty. I try to get it back from room#1, but they just ask why I don't have the paper. When I explain I gave it to them yesterday, the tell me to go to room #2. I go back to the Dean in the faculty (btws... 30 minute walk, each way). He reprints the paper, and writes down directions, in Russian, for them to give me the paper they forgot to give me yesterday. And so I get to start the process over again. I am meeting with Marina at 340, and hopefully she can fix this. Otherwise... well, I dunno. I guess I get deported? But it'd be nice if I made it to class one of these days.

Also, I would like to reiterate the fact that I was yelled at by a woman who was 1/2 hour late to her 1 1/2 hour job. She kept yelling something at me when I walked in, and it took me about 30 seconds to understand that she was saying, "get the fuck out of my office, please. get the fuck out of my office, please. get the fuck out of my office, please. get the fuck out of my office, please. get the fuck out of my office, please. "

More Traditional Russian Dancing. With Horses.

Tuesday was one of my days off. A mess of us wanted to go to the Fridays on Novie Arbat for lunch, as it was Dan's birthday. Alas, almost everyone had decided to celebrate Dan's birthday the night before, so my friend Whitney and I were the only ones to make it. I was actually pretty impressed with myself... I managed to navigate the metro, including switching lines, all by myself!

Fridays was amazing. Pricey, like all restaurants in Moscow are, especially American ones, but worth it. They had a pretty awesome business lunch:
Soup+Salad for 195p
Soup or Salad+main dish=275p
Soup+Salad+Main Course=345p
These came with a soda, and had refills for only 30p (I haven't seen refills anywhere else)

I was mostly excited because I got to eat an amazing salad with vinaigrette dressing (not Caesar!) I also ordered some sort of fettuccine with little porky bits. Quite tasty. And, the ever-important Coca-Cola "saldom, pozhalysta!"

Afterwards, Whitney and I walked back to the metro one Ctari Arbat. This is always interesting. She had wanted to find a used bookstore, but, as I haven't seen any, I steered her towards an outdoor book stall. She found a few very pretty childrens' poetry books with embellishment on the cover.

Walking back, we were chatting about things, and a woman in a fur coat started speaking to us in English. She is a Canadian expat who works for the British embassy. We chatted until we parted ways at the metro.

We returned back to the university with an hour to spare to leave for the theatre. We had tickets to another Russian dance show. After asking directions to the place, we managed to find it, but couldn't cross the street at the theatre... we had to run under a bridge/overpass. Which would have been fine, if I hadn;t managed to nearly be run over my a chauffeured Mercedes with diplomat tags and a Czech flag. Yep... almost caused an international incident by being hit by a Czech diplomat.

The dance show was pretty neat. Much less squeaking from the women tis time, which was nice.

The boys left halfway through to find food and party. Us girls stayed the whole time, then opted not to meet them. We stopped at a pizza place instead.

Interesting note: as we crossed in an underpass with the rest of the theatre-goers, we heard a really obnoxious voice repeating something in Russian. As we got further into the underpass, we realized there was a girl in there asking for money. With a horse. Yep, horse in the underpass in the center of Moscow.

Which is not the only horse-related story of the night. Apparently, in Kitai Gorod, there was a girl asking for 1000p to let people ride HER horse. The boys talked her down to 500p, and they put Dan on it. And he rode a horse to Coyote Ugly for his birthday.

Sunday, March 27, 2011

Moscow is an Amazing City, the World Hates Me, and How this Somehow Led to Me Licking Electrical Appliances

I went out last night with a couple of my girlfriends for a “girls night out.” I made it to the metro where we supposed to meet up at an hour early (as I was already on that side of town) so I decided to ride the metro for a while. For anyone who visits Moscow: all the metro stations on the brown line are absolutely amazing and Art Deco. I ended up a few stops down, sitting on a bench, playing a video game on my phone.

After we met up, we went to my friend Jaidy’s apartment to pre-game and hang out/get ready. Jaidy is a trip. She is a British girl teaching English here in Moscow. To let you know a bit about Jaidy’s character: she taught her students that it was ok to say “make your homework,” but then was too embarrassed to correct herself. She lives with a Fenchman named Bruno, who is by far the funniest person I have ever met. His mannerisms were that of a very drunken Borat, only it is impossible to understand what he is saying in any language.

Our little ragtag group also included Pierina, my Peruvian friend who is here with her family, and Marina, a Russian МГУ student who I had previously thought was quiet and subdued and innocent. And then we played Never Have I Ever…

After they attempted to make me chug a beer ( I wouldn’t) we took a cab to Masterskaya. We have been getting ripped off soooo badly on cabs. Grisha accepts any price he is offered (usually 400-500 p) Us girls didn’t pay more than 200 for a cab, and usually only paid 100. Masterskaya was incredibly dead, so we decided to go to Rolling Stone. After an adventure getting there (the cabbie couldn’t find it) we made it there to find it closed. A man standing outside said it would open within 10 minutes (it was approaching 1 o’clock) and claimed a man in a car than pulled up was the owner. We initially got all excited, but then were told to come back the next night. We introduced ourselves under fake names, and claimed we were all British. So we left to go to another club… there are like 5 in that area. Rai is there, but was closed to a private party. We went to the Funky Mama. Note: you have to pay to take cameras in, so, if you have one, hide it in your bra. There were two guys ahead of us, but they were sent away because it was a private party. We talked ourselves in… Who knew you’d get further being foreign and pretending not to know Russian? According to Jaidy, the three girls were Brits, I was American, and it was our last night in Moscow. After they let us in, we were told there was a cover of 400p. “What? I don’t understand what she is saying! Do you understand what she is saying?” The woman fetched some Asian man, who tried to explain it cost 400p to get in. He slipped up, and said 400 total, so we each handed here 100p. She tried to explain it was 400 apiece but “OMG. DO you understand her? I don’t know whats going on! We just want to dance! Where is the bathroom.” So she let us in.

Weird night. We were literally the only Westerners in the club, aside from some spray-tanned Russian girl with straight black hair (She looked like a skinny, tall Snooki). Everyone was Asian. Everyone. We danced for about an hour, but there were few men to dance with and the music was just odd techno.

Also, the bathroom there was the sketchiest thing I have ever seen. It was unisex, and pitch black, with a couple of red lights. I referred to it as “the sketchiest, rapiest” bathroom I have ever been in, and was pretty certain we’d walk in on someone shooting up heroin.

We left, and I went to spend the night with Pierina. She lived within walking distance, but it was cold, and we had heels on. So we paid a cab 50p to take us across the street. At home, we made pasta and joked about how ridiculous the Russian medical system is. She had gone to the hospital with mild gastritis, and they claimed she had appendicitis and brought her to a special hospital in an ambulance. She was in for a week, and they wanted to keep her another week before her parents busted her out. Her dad went in with a throat problem, and they claimed he had pneumonia and tried to keep him for 3 weeks. And I know someone who is in the hospital for 10 days having tests run. Who runs ten days of tests????

The only other thing worth noting is that Pierina's family's apartment is very nice by Moscow standards (two bedrooms, washing machine, wooden floors that are attached, separate living room) it is 1/4 of the size of the apartment of the American Embassy interns. So, once again: it is good to be American here.

On that note, Oleg is working on getting me a job here after I graduate. He thinks he can find me one with a starting salary of "at least $2500" a month. Which isn't a lot by American standards, but is pretty fucking amazing for Moscow. So, excited about that possibility. I just have to try to pay off my student loans as much as possible before then...

Which brings me to why the world hates me. After staying an Pierina's I made it back to my dorm room around 12. I had to wash and blow-dry my hair, and I didn't make it to my faculty until around 1 to start my visa paperwork. I had wanted to be there by 12, when the office opened. So, I waited to have some paperwork done, then walked across the street to pay for my visa. Next, I had to go back to the main building and bring some of the paperwork to a certain office. Fun fact... the elevator doesn't go to the 8th floor. I pressed the button, and it unlit. I was brought to the 11th floor. I tried to get in another elevator, but it brought me to the first floor when I pressed the button. Finally, I went to the 11th floor and walked down to the 8th. I probably lost a half an hour with this experiment.

I finally make it to the office I need to go to, and find they are only open 2 hours a day, 4 days a week. Guess who has class during the times they are open on Monday? The earliest I can get the paperwork taken care of us Tuesday.

I run to my room to change my coat, as it had grown colder. Spring in Moscow sucks. Oleg says he doesn't remember a Spring this bad (blizzards in late March) but I joke that just assume it is always like this here. I just hate how variable the weather is... all the snow melts, then 3 inches of snow in an hour. No ice to 6 inches of footprint-covered ice.

In my room I open my window to grab my juice off the windowsill. Completely forgetting that I had a pitcher of iced tea on the inside windowsill. It fell, the pitcher broke, and sweet tea splattered across myself and every electrical cord I own. I ended up with a wet rag trying to wipe the tea off of everything, and having to lick the wet cords to make sure I had gotten everything up. I was 45 minutes late to my history class, my laptop died as soon as I arrived (the class is so boring, I cannot physically get through it without facebook). And thats about it.

Tuesday, March 22, 2011

When it Rains, Part IV

Managed to be pretty productive today. Stephanie and I met Marina at a metro station Kropotinskaya to go to a couple of museums. First was the State Pushkin museum. I was thinking we would go to the Pushkin museum on Stari Arbat (one Oleg showed me, an apartment Pushkin lived in briefly with his young wife) but that one is apparently a branch of this one. Pretty interesting. Pushkin never lived there, but it featured some things of his (sketches, a lock of hair, a rather morbid death mask) and other things that just had to do with the time period he lived in. The ballroom there was magnificent, with examples of Empire clothing. And hats. I've developed quite a thing for hats in recent years.

From there we went to the Pushkin Museum of the Fine Arts. Both of these museums are on the same street, across from Christ the Savior Cathedral. You leave the metro... one is on the left, one is on the right.

Anywho, the Fine Arts Museum is massive. We only looked at like 2/3 of the main building, because we started at 230 in the afternoon, and had grown tired and hungry. But there was a Dior exhibit I'd like to go see sometime, and several other art buildings surrounding it. Id like to see the one directly next door, which featured Renoirs and other such things. I'd really like to go back to see that. Add that to the list of things I want to see while I'm here (go out of the country/go to a dacha/go out of the city to a smaller city/Bulgakov Museum/Gorky park/but shoes, preferably from an outdoor market/buy random crap to bring home for cheap, preferably from an outdoor market), and my visit is already half finished! Which reminds me... I'm going to call Air Berlin about extending my trip tomorrow.

And thats about it for now. If you want to see what I saw at the Fine Arts Museum, check out my facebook pictures. It has all sorts of the snarky comments I'm sure you have grown to love. Also, I don't know if I've mentioned this, but all Russian museums feature a littl old lady sitting in every room (they pace for some inexplicable reason at the Fine Arts Museum) to ensure you don't touch and/or steal things. So, beware of that.

Oh, and I got to listen to Chris bitch last night for the umpteenth time about how he didn't want to go to another museum because he doesn't like museums and he could look up the same thing online from his room and what is a good excuse for not going and he feels useless just walking around museums and churches and he doesn't like art...

For those of you wondering why I bitch about Chris so much, its that we end up being stuck spending a lot of time together because we have classes together, and nobody else can out up with him. And it is a warning to those poor souls who will be studying here in Moscow in the Fall with him. Good luck.

When It Rains (Part III)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qMF4B3wDO_E

Which brings me to the part of the story that the title references. Yesterday (Monday) I was depressed. Nothing really important. I am actually so much happier in Russia than I have ever been. Back home, I deal with depression really frequently. I was worried that I would have serious issues when I got to Moscow, because the Russian way of dealing with depression seems to be "take a shot and get the fuck over it." But between the newness of Moscow, and the amazing people I keep meeting, and the being too confused to have time to be sad, I hadn't actually gotten depressed yet. But yesterday, I said goodbye to my wonderful boyfriend, and got home and... the world seemed a little grey. I went to class. Eh. I walked to and from class with Chris, which is like walking to and from class with your own personal black cloud.

(This is the part of the blog where I bitch about Chris. If you are uninterested, skip ahead to the next blog entry)

Because it was Monday, and thus Papa's Place night, we decided to meet at 5:30 to go there. This was Chris' idea, as the deals at the bar don't start until 7pm. But his theory seemed to be that it we got there at 6 and ordered a pizza, they couldn't put a reserved sign on our table. I tried to tell him that they likely stop seating people a few hours before seven to prevent people from doing that, and just don't open for dinner until the reserved signs were out, but he didn't listen to me.

We were supposed to meet at 530, but my friend Nikita was late, and then Tara forgot her paperwork, and took 20 minutes to retrieve it, so we left at 550. So Chris began to bitch. Bitch about how we wouldn't be able to find a table. About how he didn't want to go barring. He kept snapping at Tara, who, granted, is a little off, but we deal. I wanted. to. hit. him. He has gotten a reputation for bitching. and bitching. and bitching. I was honestly not in the mood to go drinking, but I went because of the possibility of getting out of my room, and they have good pizza.

So, after we take the metro (Chris bitching loudly about how crowded it is) and walked to Papa's Place, we saw the reserved signs on the table, and didn't bother going in. Insert ore bitching/wet blanketness. I really needed to eat something by then, so we walked into an Irish Pub across the way to look at the menu. The second I open it Chris starts bitching to me about the prices being way too high. Once again, I wanted to hit him. What if I want to splurge on Irish food in the future? Can't I look at a goddamn menu without a... never mind.

We went to MacDonalds. It was difficult to find a seat (bitch bitch bitch). Then, Chris wanted to find a liquor store. He wanted to go down side streets, and go into the little shops near the metro, looking for Jack Daniels (which they don't sell at Ashan). It was cold, but I got dragged around looking for a liquor store near Chistie Prudie, even though I told him I know where there is one by universitet.

So, we go back to universitet. Where I get to listen to Chris bitch about how there are no vending machines for soda here, but there are for newspapers. (Note: nikita had left us before we left because some of his friends called). And he bitched about how Russians are racist. And he bitched about how they don't run enough metro trains. I honestly can't figure out why he is here/staying an extra semester. Maybe he wants to learn the language, but he has made no Russian friends to speak to him. He cares nothing about the culture, and more or less seems to be miserable, and just makes us miserable as a result. We went to the liquor store, where they did not have Jack Daniels. So I got bitched at because Russian doesn't import Jack Daniels, despite it being cheaper then Jim Beam ("Maybe, as a result, it is more profitable to import Jim Beam?" got me a glare) But I bought a little thing of pear cider I wanted to try, and we went home. Chris bought Jameson, and the entire way home he bitched about how he spent $40 for a bottle of Scotch (which is not expensive for a bottle of Scotch) and how he wasn't sharing it.

Back at the university, I ran to my room to fetch some bread, pesto, cheese, and salami. I fetched Chris some Pepsi to drink with his whisky, before he realized Jameson was for sipping. I just wanted to drink my one little bottle of cider in peace, maybe over nice conversation or music. But apparently Chris doesn't do that. He doesn't like to drink and listen to music. Or talk. Or dance. He just likes to drink and play cards. The one good thing is that he and Tara bickered like crazy. It was comforting, not being the one who is responsible for bickering with Chris constantly. After a little while (2 card games, during which I wanted to kill myself) Will joined us. We were going to watch Paranormal Activity 2 (because the crappy, low-budget horror films I recommended he download weren't good enough, bitch bitch bitch) when we were invited to the room of two of the other boys.

Thank. Fucking. God.

Grisha showed up, drunk and amusing. He is a great guy to talk to when he is drunk and not around strangers he might threaten to fight. Most of the American crowd was there, just bullshitting and drinking. Chris tried getting everyone to play cards, but everyone got him to STFU. He yelled at me for suggesting we play Never Have I Ever because "nobody wants to play" (truth: everyone wanted to play except him). I was largely suggesting it because they would start a conversation about Russian/American military stories/tactics/history/weaponry, and when he drunkenly went on a tangent, they would ignore him, leaving us girls to listen to his story. But... eh. Learned some interesting things. Tara talked about he low self-esteem, so Grisha toasted the "beautiful ladies... inside and out." I learned Grisha secretly just wants to fuck shit up with an ax, and is hoping for Apocalypse, zombie or otherwise, to try out his skills. I learned Will served in Iraq with an Ethiopian prince who enlisted in the Marines to learn military tactics to bring back to his country. And Grisha went on a speech about how I would be an amazing mother to, he estimated, three children. Oh, and Grisha and Tara discussed how to survive after the fall of civilization... she seemed to think everyone's children would grow up stunted and retarded because all of the world's vitamin supplements would expire after 2 years...

Everyone started teasing Will because he accidentally got himself a Russian girlfriend, who will not be told about his girlfriend back home. He is referring to himself as the "second Rachel" and they all joked about our upcoming joint wedding (fml). At which point Griha, drunk and excited, started planning a joint wedding for us at a resort on the Volga. I think I found it less funny than everyone else.

When Will and Grisha stepped out for a smoke around 3am, I crawled into Will's bed and passed out. They decided to walk us girls home shortly after that.

When It Rains... (Part II)

Sunday, I woke up and made French toast! Oleg had bought me American sandwich bread, and I had found some maple syrup. Coupled with some canned strawberries, it was a quite amazing breakfast.

Side note: One can of strawberries here= about 6 strawberries. They fill that thing up with syrup like its going out of style.

Oleg and I met with Stephanie and Maria (this Russian girl at the faculty that somehow got pulled into a project with us) to go around the city taking pictures of 17th century churches. We started off at one around Park Kultury, then four in the Tverskaya area, and the two near Kitay Gorod. By then, we were freaking exhausted. We stopped at a Coffee House to get warm before the final church. After we finished taking pictures, Maria left to go meet friends, and Oleg could tell us girls wanted to walk through ГУМto get warm, so we stopped in.

There was an accessory store (I think literally called "Accessory" or "Accessorize") that had a wall advertising 70% off. I was able to find a very cute purse that both goes over my shoulder (to help with my upper back/shoulder problems) and can fit my water bottle. Stephanie was also able to buy a bag. I learned two things from this experience. One is that shoes are just obnoxiously priced in Moscow. Sandals and flip-flops were like $70-80 before the discount. I refuse to spend more that $15 for flats. If I cannot find shoes by spring, I am wearing my cheap WalMart flip flops out. That is all I can say. The second thing is that they were superficially inflating prices by putting them in rubles. My purse, and the hats and whatnot had decent prices on them (my purse was only about $18 after the discount). But there were cute panties and pajama sets that had prices in euro and pounds at reasonable prices ($6-8 for panties, $18 for the pajama sets) but were ticketed in rubles at OBNOXIOUS prices ($22 for panties, $50ish for pajama sets) I wonder why that was.

Nothing of too much interest happened the rest of the evening. I made a supper of terryaki beef tips and stir-fried rice noodles. Quite yummy.

When it Rains...

I am sorry I haven't been blogging these last few days. I have been very busy with things that could likely be considered more important. Or not. I'm not to judge.

Oleg worked late Friday, and had to work Saturday, so he picked me up at the metro, and he took me to walk around Чистые Пруды. I know the area, because one side of the metro (followed by an immediate left-hand turns) leads to our favorite bar: Papa's Place. We went out the other side, and just strolled. This has to be one of my favorite area of Moscow. The buildings are all very classical. It looks almost like St. Petersburg, only not incredibly cold and wet. Here sits Patriarch's Pond Park. Although, to be fair, its still sort of Patriarch's Ice Sheet Park. But beautiful. Absolutely stunning. For those of you who do not know, this is where the opening scene of "Master and Margarita" takes place. Oleg pointed out that the tram that supposedly decapitated Berlioz in the novel still runs by the park.

As a side note, I am so glad i met Oleg. In addition to the food and affection he provides (both of which I thrive on), there are so many things in Moscow he is showing me I would never have found otherwise. Usually, my method of sight-seeing involves trying to bribe one of the American boys to accompany so a. I am not alone, and b. I don't get raped/murdered. This is not really specific to Moscow. I don't even go to malls alone back in the States. But more on this later.

At the end of the street, we stopped so Oleg could take a call. Which was fine by me, as it gave me time to read their business lunch menu in the window. For those of you who don't know (in case I haven't mentioned it before) business lunch is transliterated from English. It means an inexpensive, quick meal, as if for businessmen in a rush to get back to work. They serve is at the university cafe here for 200p (about $6) and it includes a drink, a salad, a soup, a main dish and garnish (Russian for side dish). So, anyway, this very expensive-looking menu on the corner had full business lunch (all of those things listed) for 260p. Plus, you got to pick from like 4 main dishes, 3 salads... all sorts of choices. I had already made up my mind to return, but now I had leverage with which to bribe people to come with me... cheap food!

So, we wandered around awhile. There was some Eastern restaurant Oleg wanted to take me to, but it more or less disappeared. Instead, we went to Sherbet (I would imagine the "t" is not silent) another Middle-Eastern restaurant. Per a quick google search, the menu has some Arabic dishes, but is mostly Uzbek. It certainly had an Arabic feel... arches, hookahs, dim red lights. There was pop music playing, and reality TV shows on TV, which sort of ruined the ambiance, but gave Oleg and I a chance to discuss the impending end of the world (as foreshadowed by the rise of the Jersey Shore and Justin Beiber.)

A note on prices in Moscow: they are insane. Certain things are just disgustingly cheap. I've already discussed how cheap vodka is. You can get certain snacks, or a funnel, or a fresh baguette, for under 10p. That is thirty cents. But restaurants are all famously expensive. And drink prices at restaurants are equally crazy. For example, the cheapest drink on a menu at Coffee House is soda, which is 95p. It is essentially $3 for a really small glass of soda. No refills, naturally. Our drinks at Sherbet were about half the cost of our meal. Yes, they had alcohol. But, for example, I drank coffee with Baileys, which is imported and costs scary amounts of money if you buy a bottle at the store. This was about 185p (if I remember correctly). But coffee without and alcohol was already something obnoxious, like 130-150p. So you really might as well drink.

For the curious, here is their website: http://www.scherbet.ru/

We left there, and Oleg wanted to go inside a book store. I feel like such a philistine, but I am really not that keen on most bookseller's in America. They sell more kitsch than they do books and, as much as I realize this is horrible/ruins the publishing industry, etc... it is just so much cheaper to buy online. But, I must admit, Russian bookstores are odd. The places where the books are are pretty bland. Shelves reaching to the ceilings, and books are much more categorized than in the US. But they have these little kiosks where you type in the book you want, and it prints out a receipt with the location (which hall, section, shelf, etc.) Pretty neat. I was able to find a Russian translation of one of my favorite books (not a well-known one at all) on display.

Downstairs, things got odd. Like everything else in this city, the bookstore had a complete florist shop in it, as well as selling pretty much every touristy thing you could imagine.

On the way home, we stopped at a grocery store for food for supper the next night. Oleg sent me in with promised to join me after he picked something up. Big mistake. In the U.S. we have maybe 4-6 types of milk. There is Vitamin D, skim, lowfat, chocolate, maybe soy or almond? Here there is literally an aisle of unrefrigerated milk, and a giant section of refrigerated milk. So, I just stared at it at a loss until Oleg returned and chose a milk for me. Then, we went to get steak. I had found terryaki sauce, and wanted a nice, think skirt steak for terryaki steak. We went to to butcher, and she was about to grab me two nice-looking ones when... scary insect appears near the steaks in the display case. Oleg told the woman, and, in the process of nabbing Big Scary Bug... he fell into the case of steaks. We opted for beef tips after that. It really freaked me out, because this is supposedly one of the higher-class grocery stores... what goes on behind the scenes at Ashan?

I've much, much more to tell y'all, but I have an excursion in an hour, and sort of want to eat. So I shall continue the riveting tale of my weekend upon my return.

Friday, March 18, 2011

Russian Girls: A Case Study

So, I've been meaning to write a post on this for a while. Currently, I am trying to keep from falling asleep in my Russian History class, and I suppose this is a good time to do it. This might come off as a little bitchy or bitter, but it is meant to be humorous. But, to be honest, I've no female Russian friends. Everyone here seems to laugh a little bit at Russian girls, foreigners and Russian men alike. Maybe I have it all wrong, and they are all wonderful, amazing, kind souls. I don't know. None of them speak to me. So, I shall continue assuming they are all vain, trite, competitive, and cold, until somebody proves me wrong.

Russian girls never leave their house/room without full makeup and their hair perfect. Everyone jokes that they won't even go to the toilet without makeup, and I have heard one admit she puts on lipstick to take the trash out. I imagine girls who move in with their boyfriends make sure they wake up an hour early to get ready before their man wakes up, out of fear that he shall quiver in fear at her true appearance.

And I partially do not blame them. On the streets, Russian girls look beautiful. Absolutely amazing. But I think 80% of it is cosmetics. I have only seen my roomate about 4 times, and she looks like a completely different person each time. First time, I thought she was beautiful. The next time, she was prepared for bed, and I was wondering what I was thinking the first time. She was swamp haggish. And then, the third time I ran into her, she was even more beautiful than ever.

Russian girls are also very skinny. Occasionally, you'll see a chubby girl, but its very rare. 10X more often than that, you'll see an anorexic-looking chick. I was told that some girls here will regularly go three days without consuming anything but orange juice, in hopes of staying skinny. One of the American boys is dating a Russian girl who eats nothing but a small snack every day.

So, keep in mind, you will come to Russia, and immediately feel fat and ugly. Get over it. I literally ran through an entire compact of foundation my first month here. Luckily, I found my usual makeup at a store here. But I am slowly giving up on going out in full whore regalia. As previously mentioned, Oleg doesn't mind me not wearing makeup, and it is really doing a number on my skin. And the food here is so rich... don't even bother trying to lose weight here. Vodka doesn't help.

Dressing like a Russian girl in winter is even more problematic. I dress very well for an American, both here and back home. Still nothing compared to what the Russian girls wear. Usually, they wear high-heeled boots, sometimes stilettos, which generally reach to the knee. These are almost always paired with some sort of miniskirt and nice top or minidress. To keep warm, they usually wear a form-fitting down coat, belted at the waist, that reaches to the knees, usually with some sort of fur-lined hood(genuine or synthetic)that they almost never actually put on their head.

Also, straight bangs, which went out of style with the over 12 crowd in the 1990's, and really popular here. Usually, the bangs are much shorter than they should be...

So, please don't hate me if you disagree with this (Oleg). I am just stating observations, and trying to warn my gf's who shall be coming after me.

Thursday, March 17, 2011

Links

Here are the links to the videos in question:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x-yHSaP0Dyg&feature=player_embedded

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=njAC38WnQo0

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VTh6r15FWf0&playnext=1&list=PL0A856BD8C6977158

Some sort of corny bomb pun...

So, yesterday was incredibly annoying. I got out of class at 4 o'clock, with the intention of going to Ashan with the girls to buy stuff for tacos. When we got to our sector, outside, there was a line outside. I showed my pass to the guard, who said something in Russian, and, while I couldn't understand the words, I understood the gist: "You are not getting in." Rather than hang out outside in the cold, Stephanie and I took a marshrutka to Ashan to purchase taco materials. While there, I texted Greg, and learned there was a bomb threat at the university, and we weren't going to be let in until the swept the whole building. So, we went to go sit on the third story, near the food court. It was even more packed than usual. After Stephanie and I spent an hour hovered over our coffee and Coka-Cola (со льдом, пожалуйста)we figured out that everyone there were МГУ students killing time. One of the boys was at the mall with his Russian gf, but he never joined us. We were soon joined by three of the Americans, and sort of chilled there for awhile. Stephanie bought sushi, but I forgot to replenish my wallet, and, after spending nearly $30 in taco-related groceries, had only about 200p on me. But, we saw a lot of people we knew from the university. I texted Олег asking if he could come and fetch me, as I received a text about the bomb at about 7:30, along with the promise that dorms *should* be open *within a few hours*. In Russia, that means might, in some magical far away alternate universe, be open tomorrow. So, naturally, I run into Agata and hear that they are open literally 3 minutes before he arrives. I figured I'd just go home with him.

So, we more or less spent the evening looking music we like on youtube. And then, we spent this morning watching youtube videos. He showed me one starring Alan Tudyk, and I flipped out. And told him about my minor Firefly obsession. Much to my surprise, he has heard of Firefly, and pulled up a skype conversation he had with a friend about a Firefly-themed youtube video. This. is. so. happening.

As he didn't have to be to work until late, we walked around Old Arbat for awhile. It is a pretty touristy area, with painting hawkers and souvenir shops everywhere, but the classical architecture and beautiful street more than make up for it. I can't wait to go back with my camera. There is a nice statue to Pushkin outside the Pushkin museum (Pushkin's last home... bright blue), and two My-Mys. It is imperative I get my picture taken with that cow.

We went to Dunkin Donuts, because, hey, fuckin' donuts. I'd actually been craving a donut a few days ago. So I got a slightly crispy crueller with strawberry frosting, and peach sweet tea, which more or less made my day. Oleg got a lemon coolata, and could not drink it. It was explained to me last night that, per Russian mentality, we eat food hot because it aids in digestion, and it is bad for you to drink cold drinks while eating. *Sigh*. Either way, my tea was amazing.

I also learned that Олег doesn't like girls who wear makeup. Which is probably the only reason he likes me... I am probably the only female in this entire country willing to go to the trash chute without makeup. Or he was lying because he didn't have the heart to tell me I looked haggish.

So, I got home way past the time to go to class, and took a bit of a nap. Which is fine, because apparently we got test results back today, and most of the class was just the professor yelling at students. And it is the only Russian class I had missed.

After nap... taco time. Pictures will be on facebook in the future, I promise. They were delicious. I've enough meat left to prove to Oleg that tacos and sharma are not the same thing (alas, we cannot mix cheese and sour cream in, to make them truly delicious). Now that I have access to Mexican food, I think I could actually deal with living here. This weekend, I make French Toast and Terryaki steak. I even made a strawberry vinaigrette so that I might have a salad.

Wednesday, March 16, 2011

P.S.

Fuck... does this mean I have to change the name of my blog? Ah, screw it. It's catchy.

Return...

The trip back from Moscow was odd. I was exhausted, and crawled into the top berth while everyone else was plating cards. Never again. That was just too small of a space. There were cops on the train, who had apparently taken a few drunk men aside and threatened them. They stopped by our area, and threatened to take Chris to jail for playing cards, presumably for gambling (there was no money on the table... they were likely just fishing for bribes.)

It bears mentioning that I consumed the most amazing salad ever on that trip. Pizza Hut here is actually edible, and featured buy-one-get-one small pizzas on the weekdays. But they had the most amazing chef salad. Greens, ham, corn, radishes (that I picked off) and cheddar cheese with some sort of sweet and sour dressing. As much as I hate raw vegetables, it inspired me to try eating salads more here. Lettuce is sort of expensive, and I could not find any sort of non-Caesar salad dressing, so I am going to buy some canned strawberries and vinegar and try to make a vinaigrette.

I'd gone to Ashan twice yesterday, and shall be going back today after class. I've discovered tortilla and taco seasoning so... taco night! Unfortunately, they have changed their layout, which has me incredibly depressed. Like when the Homestead WalMart changed its layout after I left for college... its like there is nothing familiar anymore!

Also, I suppose I should tell y'all, I've a new boyfriend. After one of the most awkward conversations of my life, Олег and I decided to be exclusive. Oh, cultural divides. I pretty much have to stop myself from turning this blog into a ramble about what an amazing guy he is (as much as I know how much he would enjoy it) because it is uninteresting to anyone besides him and I. But yes. So, know I've a Russian boyfriend, and access to a real kitchen in which to cook for aforementioned boyfriend. My mother doesn't seem to want me to come home anymore.

But more sad news... Apparently my cat back home has disappeared. She's been gone for several weeks, and female cats who are used to being fed copious amounts of people food every day aren't prone to wander. So that is a upsetting me.

Monday, March 14, 2011

St. Petersburg (Part III)

Addendum: St. Petersburg is actually younger than Moscow, but seens older because it has more classical buildings.

Well, our final night in the hostel proved most eventful. Once again, everyone was LAME and decied not to go out. We made friends with another couple of people in the hostel, and decide to stay in drink with them. Depending on who you ask, this was either a horrible idea or... well, maybe a neutral/bad one. Essentially, this one Ukrainian guy made me drink vodka with pepper in it (like everything else here that isn't sitting on cold steps, it is considered "good for your health.") It didn't take much time for the Ukrianian dude to start hitting on me, saying things to Grisha to translate (he didn't speak Russian, and didn't know I understood what he was saying.) Grisha would kind of smile, look at me, and just explain "he really likes you." Yeah, I got that. At one point in time, he smacked my ass. I tried telling Grisha that he could not keep pawning me off on every guy he claimed was a "good guy,"/encourage me to sleep with every dude that bought me a drink, but he got a little belligerent. After a sharma run (SHARMA) I went to bed.

Apparently, random drunk Ukrainian dude does not put all of his eggs in one basket. After I rejected him (does it count as rejection if I just literally run away?) he went after one of the American girls, rather successfully. I don't know what went down, I just know she was really depressed, and everyone found out about it pretty quick. Then, after we went to bed, he forced himself into our room about 4am, and the two other girls had to force him out and lock the door. I bravely watched from my bed. Then, he proceeded to knock on our door for about 20 minutes. Not. Fun.

The next morning, we got up to visit the Hermitage. well, first we visited St. Isaac's Basilica. And I thought Peter and Paul looked Catholic... this church looked like a mini-Vatican. Yes, a little lighter. The crazy thing was, it was partially a church, partially a museum. There were 6 (6!!!) gift shops and an ATM within the body of the church (!!!!), but one of the alcoves actually had a service going on. Then, Marina bought us tickets to the Collonnade, so we were able to scale the 250+ steps to go around the dome. From there, we could see the entire city. Most beautiful. One of the boys got very serious vertigo, poor dear.

From there, half of us went to the Hermitage, and the other half (2/3 of the males) decided they didn't want to stand in line 2 hours to go to a museum, and went to the Peter I museum. That museum features mostly oddities Peter the Great picked up around Europe... including way too many fetuses, apparently.

We decided to brave the cold and the line, and soldiered through. And it was worth it. I saw some really amazing art... Monets, Van Goghs. I saw my first Botticellis, da Vincis, and Lippis, which is rediculous because you'd think I'd have seen these things in Italy. Besides the art (still amazing) the building itself was phenomenal... several rooms of the palace were on display, and we joked that the entire place should be a museum to ceilings. Unfortunately, between the line and the time spent at St. Isaacs, and the fact that it was Sunday and they closed hours early, we only had a few hours. Word of advice: go when you have at least an entire day, if not more, to spend.

Saturday, March 12, 2011

St. Petersburg (Part II)

We awoke this morning to a text from Marina saying we were leaving at 10. I had to try several times to wake up the boys, and then they yelled at me for not waking them up earlier. W.T.F.

The two boys who went to the strip club... well, one had an ok time, and one had way too much fun. One spent about $90 and then just hid in the corner playing solitaire. Another decided that he spend about $500, buy a bottle of champagne, and go off into the mist with some girls. Dun Dun Dun. Long story short, certain things are more ok at strip clubs here than they are in the U.S., he ended up naked in a hot tub with two girls, too drunk to do anything too productive, and (per the credit card reciept he saw the next morning) $2500 down.

So, we went from here to get breakfast down the street at what we thought was a bagel shop. It was more of a Starbucks... a coffee shop (I think called Coffee Shop) with like 6 menu items. A bit overpriced, but the food was decent. I am starting to feel an affinity to Russia street food. Or so I say until the brainwashing aliens I daily consume make it to my brain...

From there we went to Peter and Paul fortress. We went in the Cathedral, and that was pretty neat. It looked NOTHING like most Orthodox churches, and more like a Catholic Church from the Continent, for obvious reasons. For reasons I don't quite understand, we ended up spending like 30 minutes in the gift shop. I went to go snuggle a kitty that lived there for awhile.... ah, Saint Petersburg and its cats.

We then visited a torture museum. I mean, one of the boys had a point... you see one torture museum, you've seen them all. But as someone who has been quoted as saying that the only place my life could logically lead to is Inquisition Porn, I always like to keep up on my research. I think the best part was the voice of the English audio tour seemed to enjoy his job too much, and was very giddy when he explained such things as "water torture." I mean, literally, giddy.

Us girls also went to an exhibit they started today on dresses of the late Victorian Era to 1930's. It was mostly pictures, and tons of exhibits of shapewear (corsets, bumrolls, crinolines, and the like.) The boys opted to stay outside.

We also went to some other random museum there. At first, I was pretty unimpressed... it started off like a military museum/random early history museum. But then things got cultural... womens clothing, purses, dining services. The best part was def. this 7 foot tall, scale model of an 1880's St. Petersburg apartment block.

Then we visited the prison. Honestly, not too interesting. There were dozens upon dozens of cells, more or less decorated exactly the same, on display. I was mostly just annoyed that they were bigger than my dorm room.

So, we decided to walk to a big battleship about 15 minutes away, but it was closed once we got there. So, we came home to Nevsky Prospect. We went to Teremok, but I wasn't quite hungry, so... came home and took a nap. I just walked down to KFC a little while ago, had a little snacky, and made it home. All by myself. No kidnapping attempts. I feel myself getting more confident, little by little. Also, fun fact: there is a Sex Shop in the alley below our hotel. I really want to go, but Sex Shop down a dark ally in a foreign country sounds like a bad idea.

Right now, we are all just chilling, watching the ManU game, waiting for it to end to go out to ze bar/club.

From what little I've witnessed, St. Petersburg seems like Boston to Moscow's New York. A little older, maybe a little cleaner, but nearly as exciting. And things it better than everyone else. With less immigrants.

Friday, March 11, 2011

St. Petersburg (Part II)

So, I must admit, I am becoming one of those shameless Americans who eats at American restaurants while abroad. It's disgusting, I know... I don't even eat at chain restaurants while traveling in the US. But, in my defense... American food is just much better here.

After waking up from my nap (alone. in my room. in a hostel. in a strange city=momentary panic attack) we all set out for food. Several of the boys wanted to go to a Hardee's they found (something I wouldn't touch in America with a stick), and I let myself be carried off to Pizza Hut (somewhere else I avoid in the US). Surprisingly, reasonable prices. By which I mean, I bought a personal pizza for 189p, and got a second pizza free! So, that was awesome. They have a lunch special of like 200p for soup, salad, pizza or pasta, and a drink, so we'll likely be returning.

After that, I went to join the rest of the boys, who planned to go a-partying. Alas, they wanted to go to a strip club, and I haven't the money nor energy to blow, so three of us just wandered the streets for a while, looking for a jazz club. No luck. We found a cheap bar, but it was packed, and not somewhere to have a single relaxing drink. Another Irish bar was packed. Another was closed (at 10pm on a Saturday!!!)

St. Petersburg differs from Moscow in a couple of ways. Its a bit cleaner, and the people are more friendly. Also, its fucking wet. But there were no street vendors. All over Moscow, you can get beer, cigarettes, a new heel for your shoes, a bouquet of flowers, a pereshok, and a deck of cards, within 20 feet of each other. i went into 4 stores trying to find a bottle of Mirinda (a yummier Fanta... if you drink it, Fanta will lose its allure). So that was annoying.

Which is why, a week after the last time I went to a club and danced (7 days!!!! I'm dying!!!) I am lying in bed at 11 on a Friday night bitching to you.

St. Petersburg... I guess

The title of this post is suck because, really, I've seen almost none of St. Petersburg so far. This is largely my fault.

We got into town about 6am, but were unable to check into our hostel until 1pm. So, we went to chill at a Coffee House. We were only there a few minutes, when I realized my phone was out of minutes, so three of us returned to the station so I could put money in it, and, low and behold... SHARMA. When we got back to the Coffee House, nobody believed we found it, until I was able to pull the leftovers out of my pocket. Then, everyone else left for Sharma.

I felt bad for the possibility of sleeping there for 5 hours without ordering anything, so I ordered a very overpriced chocolate shake. Worst. Idea. Ever. For those of you who don't know, I don't drink milk in the States. Not a medical reason or anything... just an irrational fear. I like cooking with it, but milk itslef... kind of weirds me out. This shake (approx. $6, btw) was a. vanilla, and b. 80% milk. It was so milk it wasn't even cold. Besides the fact that much of the milk in Russia is what I would deem as a little sketchy... there are about 1500 varieties (slight overexxagueration) and it is likely the milk they were giving me was the sort that has been powdered, then watered and placed in a box so that it might survive nuclear apocolypse. My tummy has been back-flipping all moring.

Soon after I feel asleep to several of the Americans discussing Operating Systems and networks and several other things that don't matter much to me and are unpleasant to dream about (I'll let you guess which ones) they decided to take us to the hostel. Luckily, it was really close by. Having never stayed in a hostel, I was a little concerned.

He had to turn a corner, and go a litte down an ally, then get let into a staircase area. Up 5 flights of stairs. Oh, the legendary walk-ups. Finally, inside... the place is beautiful. Hardwood floors, a nice kitchen area eith a water cooler and free tea and coffee. They let us lock up our bags and brush our teeth and freshen up so we could explore before we could check in. Most pleasant. And scary amonts of cheap. $300-$900p/night, depending on occupancy and season. So, essentially, you could get a single room here, in the high season, for $30 a night. Crazy.

From here, we went to the State Museum of Russia. Beautiful. I was really impressed when I recognized of one the paintings... which naturally I now cannot find nor remember. A few of the other paintings really touched me, primarily a giant one "The Last Day of Pompeii" and "Sadka." I found a postcard of Sdaka, and another postcard of a painting I didn't actually see, but was "wtf" enough for me to want it on my wall.

When we departed... it was snowingly like crazy. We devided into two camps: those who wanted to explore some more, and those who needed naps. Much to my shame, I fell in the latter. I trudged to a fast-food place with the boys, indulged in my beloved fountain Coca Cola (SALDOM!) and checked into the hostel.

BEAUTIFUL. I had joked that I would be very disappointed if our room here was nicer than the dorms. It is. Yes, I share it with two girls, but it is like 4 times bigger, bright and clean, with Chinese lanterns and a decent view. I took a shower (figuring this might be the last time my hair could dry) and... modern showers! I am immensely happy.

Midnight Train (part II)

Oh. My. God. I forgot to tell you about the most scarring part of this trip. The station bathrooms.

We make it to the station last night, and were told that the restrooms on the train were closed for the first two hours of the trip, and so were told to use the restroom before we left. First we had to travel downstairs. It cost 20p, but I paid it, just because I had already gone so far. On the wall, there was something "fashion vending." You paid 50p for... a hair straightener. i would have taken a picture if I wasn't afraid of getting yelled at by the cleaning attendants. So, we went to another room for the toilets and... no toilets. Literally, holes in the floor. I decided I didn't want to be adventurous. Not that I'm not adventurous in general, but rather traveling makes me feel dirty, and I didn't need to add to that.

...took a midnight train going ANYWHERE

We left Moscow around 10pm last night to spend the weekend in St. Petersburg. Adventure time.

So, the train was, like most things, more or less not far from what I expected, largely because I've learned to not have expectations. On one side, there are 4 berths (two sets of two... I requested the bottom, on account of my stature), and on the other, one, plus a table and two seats that fold down into another. I shared a little sleeping area with the 2 other girls and Chris. The rest of the boys were mostly in the adjoining area.

We started playing some rather fun sort of card game Stephanie brought, but then I went to join the boys, who were drinking and telling stories. We were eventually joined by Marina's daughter. As they turned the lights off, and most people were going to bed, we decided to retire to the dining car to continue talking.

This little dining car was incredibly overpriced, but we had just had an entire conversation about the food we miss from back home (Mexican and fried food, mostly) and I knew that if I didn't get a snack, I would lie in bed that night craving fried things. So I ordered some french fries and listened in amusement as one of the Americans tried to hit on Anastasia. I finally decided to retire, and brought her with me. Poor girl. Very sweet. Has no idea what these crazy boys have in store for her.

Also, my life would be so much easier and cheaper for me if I drank beer. It is so cheap in Europe, cheaper than water in some places. i just cannot stomach the stuff.

Slept well enough on the train, and was awoken about 10 minutes before we were arriving. Not too much to tell. We are sitting at a Coffee House until 1pm (it is 730 now) to check into the hostel. Oh, a few of us ran back to the station so I could add some money to my phone (an unexpected expense... I need to stop drunk-texting), and we found SHARMA! Thats the Russian version of kebab. Amazing.

Wednesday, March 9, 2011

(Continued)

I still don't understand why people are so nice to me. Most people seem completely unaware of what a horrible person I am. Grisha took me to the pharmacy and was able to get me some Amoxicillin. I was a little worried by the way he asked me three times if I knew how to take them if Russian antibiotics are suppositories or something. But, it was very kind of him to do. So, hopefully, within a few days, I'll feel less like death.

Yes, I woke up Sunday morning feeling like death. Much to his credit, Олег spent much of the day taking care of me... feeding me soup, making me tea, and allowing me to nap. I went back over to his house in the evening, where I learned a couple of insightful, if crazy things.

First, a story. As I have learned, all Russians I have met have been to Crimea a time or two. And they all want to show me pictures of Crimea, which is fine by me, as I love looking at pictures. Олег had a picture of a cigarette warning label in Ukrainian, which apparently read, "Warning: cigarette smoking causes erectile dysfunction." The man who was handed the pack handed it back to the teller, and said, "No, no... give me the one about cancer."

Also, I've learned that Russians will do everything in their power to get out of cleaning blankets. When I moved in, I couldn't figure out why one of my sheets was sewn closed on three sides. Apparently, these are blanket covers. You put your comforter in it, so that the comforter stays clean. This process takes like 20 minutes, and is painful to watch. I was told jokingly that it was the primary reason to catch a wife... so somebody else would do this. I responded with, "don't marry an American. She'll think you're crazy and just wash the damn blanket." In addition to all of this, there is a sort of duster, a blanket you put on top of the comforter when you are not sleeping to keep the blanket clean. Oh, those crazy Russians!

The good news is, I made it through 2 out of 3 classes today, didn't die, feel a little better, and I have meds! And I leave tomorrow for St. Pete! Yay!

... and that went even better (Part II)

Sorry about that. I've come down with my usual, "my body wants me dead" tonsillitis case I get every three months or so. Back to the story...

After Kolomenskaya, Олег and I went downtown to find some sort of food. We ended up at "Shakespeare: bar and restaurant," which I somehow had already seen and taken pictures of in my wanderings. Like everything in Moscow, it was tad over-priced, but quite amazing. I had delicious stroganoff, and was upset that the portion sizes were big enough that I couldn't even finish. The decor of this place (which was underground) was both calming and traditional... the walls were hung with dozens of Pre-Raphealite prints, and I pointed out the Waterhouses (my favorite painter).

From there, we decided to wander some more. We walked through ЦУМ for awhile... Leave it to Rachel to locate a mall MORE EXPENSIVE than ГУМ. But that doesn't really matter. Nobody, I think, actually buys anything in these malls. The few people I do see holding shopping bags, I silently make up back stories for them... presumably the wives and daughters and mistresses of oligarchs. Some of the clothes were quite nice, D&G and Armani and the like. Some were quite horrible... One store featured a rack of shiny, sequined, shoulder-padded, Michael-Jackson-esque jackets. For hundreds upon hundreds of dollars. *shudder*

After we tired of exploring the mall, we decided to go back to Олег's. Yes, I know... a lady probably shouldn't be going to a man's apartment on the first date. But he had a hookah, and I was enjoying myself far too much to go home quite yet.

A note on that: Contrary to what Denner and my grandmother have drilled in my head about Russian boys, Олег was absolutely beyond the perfect gentleman. I don't know if I have ever been treated so well by a man, which isn't to say I'm not usually treated well. But he usually held my hand or arm, and held the small of my back when we had to step somewhere (such as onto the metro or escalator) as if afraid I was going to fall. I'm really not used to such affection, but found it very nice, and comforting.

So, Олег lives in a small but cozy apartment not too far from the university. Too be honest, I don't think I have every met a bachelor who keeps his house so clean. So, we smoked hookah, and listened to Middle Eastern music for while, and then watched a film.

We went for a walk through a nearby forest. It was quite beautiful, and peaceful... away from the noises and pollution of the city. Still, I am not accustomed to going through snow-covered, frightening woods at night, and expressed my concern. Олег, being immensely helpful, explained how there was a murdered who killed about 15 people in these woods about 10 years ago. He had been caught, and it was on the other side of the woods, but people walked through it during that time like nothing was going on. Oh, and there were rumors of pagan temples were sacrifices were made... Yeah, not a big help.

I must prepare for class, now. I was awake all night ill, and missed my first class. I am still trying to get ahold of my program director about getting antibiotics or seeing a doctor, as I cannot keep this illness up too much longer, especially when we leave for St. Pete tomorrow (and I'll likely get no rest).

Tuesday, March 8, 2011

...and that went even better

So, I apologize for what will probably be a long blog post. I've been away from my computer for over two days, and much has happened.

So, I went Sunday to meet Олег at Kolomenskaya. I was running a few minutes late, as I am not quite certain of public transport, and how much time it takes to get places, especially when I have to switch metro lines. It wasn't a big deal: Russians overestimate the amount of time it takes to get anywhere. Always. But he was early, and explained that it is expected a woman be a few minutes late.

There were drones of people at Kolomenskaya. I mean, it was a festival. There were people selling goods everywhere... We went into the main church there, which is, I believe, the first Orthodox church I've visited that was still in use, and not currently a museum. There were candles everywhere, and everyone was lighting candles and saying prayers. At the door, there was a man handing out scarves to give to women to cover their heads. It was so very beautiful.

So, after that we waled around some. Part of the park had a sort of carnival, with rides for children and stands selling blini. We decided not to eat there, and to make it into the city. All the while, we talked and joked. I think the most interesting thing I learned was that Siberians are known for being very healthy. In some parts of the area, newborn babies are put into an oven (not on the fire, obviously, but just in the hot oven...) for like 10 seconds, while the mother is held back from grabbing it. This makes the child healthy in the long run, supposedly...


...ok. Just got back from supper. I've class in like 8 hours. Must. go. to. bed. More tomorrow.

Sunday, March 6, 2011

Well... that went well...

So, the night after I was all depressed on account of Cute Czech boy, I had a pretty damn near amazing night. That's Moscow for you... ok, the people aren't always incredibly, ok, the food is rich, and ok, its fucking cold. However, you are always meeting new people, having zany experiences, and just all-around GOING PLACES.

I wasn't feeling up to going out, and I really wanted to take Nikita to dinner for his pains the night before. Alas, he was busy studying, so I begrudgingly joined the Americans going to a party.

Here's the story: one of the Americans had a friend from her university back home. He is currently an intern at the American embassy. He invited us all to his apartment for a little soiree.

So, it was essentially our little ragtag group of American students, a few very nice interns, and like 4 Russians that were friends with one of the guys. We hung out for a couple of hours, talking. I know for certain I am shooting for a job at the embassy. I also met a wonderful guy, a Jewish lawyer named Олег. We made plans to go to Kolomenskaya for Maslenitsa.

Also, how we learned he is Jewish... One of the girls at the party was Caucasion. Alec said she looked it, but I honestly couldn't tell... I guess a rounder face than most Russians, but red hair and whatnot. And Олег said that most Russian girls want to marry a Caucasian. I asked why. He said because they don't drink, they respect their parents, are more gentle (presumably Russian code for "less likely to beat you") and dark good looks. And I respond with, "like how everyone in America wants their daughters to marry Jews." And Олег responded with the usual amount of incredulity.

Side note: I attract three sorts of people in life.... gays, Jews, and the affluent. I have already discussed the random rich/powerful girls I met here. I shall discuss the gay friends shortly. But Jews in Russia happen to love me. I'm guessing it because Russians generally REALLY HATE JEWS. I know I've mentioned this before. So, the second I mention that my best friend back home is Jewish, or that I belong to a hillel, or even my name (common enough in America, but obviously a Jewish name and not a Russian one), or even that in America people are ok with Jews, they feel that they can be themselves around me. Its like a gay guy playing it straight... Acting a certain way around most people (like Russians...) and then opening up and being themselves when they meet people who aren't going to judge and/or beat them for being who they are. Nikita literally introduces his friends to me as, "This is ---. He is also a Jew." Random cultural observation.


So. Club time. We left the Russians, including my adorable lawyer, and made our way... Hell, I don't know where we went. I never know. I can never even pronounce the clubs we go to. I need to start collecting cards. All I know is we got on the metro, then more or less walked for a half and hour or so. In the snow. Word was there was a club with a bunch of U.S. Marines... even the DJ was a Marine. So, we used his name to get into this place.


On the way, I was talking to one of the Americans, and we fast became best friends. After talking about Dan Savage, ГУМ, and our mutual love of judging people, I started mentioning adventures with my gay friends/the fact that I am pawning my eventual children off on them. He finally admits to me that he is gay, but not everybody knows. I wanted to throw out there, "honey, everybody knows," but held my tongue. Instant. Best. Friends. We talked about how shitting being gay is in Moscow, how I wrote to Dan Savage about possibly getting involved in the Gay Rights' Movement here, and going on ГУМ dates to eat pastries and be bitchy.

Club Story. Run by, of all people, a dude from Lakeland. The place was REALLY American. As about to random house music, and shitty English music (Vanilla Ice? Really) we listened to popular American music... rap and Ke$ha and the like. I initially started to dance with the nerdiness-looking American. Telling conversation:

Me: Are you American?
American dude: No
Me: ... Yes you are
AD: Ok, yes I am.
Me: Dude. I'm and American student. I'm not asking for the same reasons all of these women are.
AD: Oh ok.
*several minutes pass*
AD: I love you, but I have a girlfriend.
Me: ... huh?
And promptly give up to go dance with SGF.

So, we danced. For four hours. There were, as always, more chicks than guys, but I always had a partner. Two really adorable Americans were there (the bosses of my friends from the embassy), but they had their own thing going on.... one, blonde with glasses, one like an undrugged-out Robert Downey, Jr.

Also, it was obvious from the second we walked in the door many of the girls there were prostitutes. SGF and I remarked on this, making fun of one girl's fake Burberry leggings. It later got around to us that many of them weren't working that night, but were just working girls going out to "meet a nice guy." Knowing what I do about Russian culture, I can't really blame them for wanting to meet Americans.

So. Danced until 430. Didn't even realize it was that late. Yes, it was American music, and yes, the hookers danced better than me (not something I am used to in Europe)but it was still fun. The proprietor of the place bought me a few drinks (for being from SoFla) and we chatted a bit. He literally came to Moscow a few years ago because he was bored. He'd been living in Nicauragua or Peru or somewhere, and figured, "fuck it," and hopped a plane to Moscow. Although I imagine there was more paperwork than his stories let on.

So, at around 5ish, one of the American bous flipped out that we wanted to go home. Tara and I went with them back to their apartment to crash, as we didn't know how long the МГУ crowd would be out. We left, and it was snowing. Hard-core snowing. Poor Tara was in pumps. We walked for awhile before we flagged down a cab. It was a tight squeeze, but we'd be home shortly. Oh, no we wouldn't. Cab driver got pulled over and had to provide documents, and likely pay a bribe. The cab fare went up. We finally got home, and crashed.

Which means the next day, Rachel, a mildly Russian-looking girl in fur and yesterday's makeup, got to escort one of Russia's few black girls home, holding her hand the entire time to keep her from tripping on the ice in her 3" heeled red pumps. We got some looks.

P.S. Found the club! www.story-club.ru